Lisle 40750 Parking Brake Cable Remover

Product Information

I found some pics of mine apart. See if this helps. The good news, you do not have to remove the axle shaft to just deal with the parking brake. But, there are high odds you have to remove the brake drum and the parking brake. With the parking shoes out, the brake lever the cable is attached to will then move enough to allow you to unhook the cable. I pieced this theory together from my pics today and my foggy memory when I had it apart. I had the brake cable off when the shoes were out and I now recall the lever would move enough when the shoes were off I could then get it off the lever. No way it was coming off with the shoes installed as the lever would not move far enough so I could unhook it.

Down at the connector or union, we would grab the permanently crimped with vice grips, and if new, be able to push the cable and get the swaged nut over the dimple. I could see with rusting the nut may need to be tapped with a screwdriver and hammer to get it freed. If that is really bad, lay the union against a steel object or the frame and flatten the dimple out to give a more direct path. I haven't done this in a dozen years, but I believe the hole allows you to push the nut up to help raise it over the dimple. Before dealing with the front cable and the reel, you were supposed to pull the cable all the way out from under the vehicle, then put the pin in so the retraction spring stayed in tension. The cable and the assembly can be removed, or the front cable replaced. I changed dust shields at different times. You do have to pull the axle for the dust shields, just not to only deal with the parking brake.